STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

BBC - MYTHS AND HEROES: SHANGRI LA

During 2003 and 2004 I was fortunate enough to be asked to travel with Michael Wood during the filming of his BBC / PBS series "In Search of Myths and Heroes". The series was made by MayaVision International, and my photographs illustrate the accompanying BBC Publications book. 

The first chapter tells the story of Shangri La, the mystical land depicted in James Hilton's book Lost Horizon. Hilton did not invent this concept - it has long been a theme in Tibetan mythology, where it is known as Shambala.  

Our journey in the footsteps of the Jesuit priest Antonio de Andrade, who, in 1624 was the first European to cross the Himalaya, took us from the sweltering heat of India, across the Himalaya to the freezing plateau of Western Tibet. In Humla and Limi - remote valleys in north-west Nepal, our arrangements were made by The Nepal Trust, whose medical and aid projects in the area are an inspiration. 

These images of Old Delhi, Haridwar, Badrinath, Kathmandu, Western Nepal and Tibet were taken with a Nikon F5 and Fuji Velvia slide film. 

 

  • On our first morning in India we hit the streets of Old Delhi...
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  • Urdu Bookseller, Old Delhi
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  • LIME JUICE - Old Delhi
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  • Date Seller - Old Delhi
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  • We travelled from Old Delhi to Haridwar by sleeper train.
  • Tobacco stall, Haridwar Staion, Uttarakhand
  • Porters at Haridwar Station, Uttarakhand
  • Shiva statue in the car park outside
  • Beautiful old house
  • haridwar_chaiwallah_2004RVP
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  • Bathing ghats on the River Ganges
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  • Hanuman on the roof of an ashram
  • Ashrams
  • Lord Ganesh on the roof of an ashram
  • Hindu pantheon in the courtyard of an ashram.
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  • A Shankaracharya saint, fed and victualled, steps out of an ashram into the sun during a melaNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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  • Saddhu - a Hindu holy manNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Saddhu - a Hindu holy-manNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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  • Saddhu
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  • Temple detailNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Temple detailNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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  • Blessing before ritual bathing in the Ganges
  • Pilgrims bathing in the Ganges
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  • On the road to Badrinath
  • The Himalaya rising into the evening haze, from the road to JoshimathNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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  • Roadside statue of a saddhu
  • Uttarakhand
  • This was almost as far as we got in our attempt to follow Andrade's footsteps across the Himalaya from India to Tibet. Up valley from here lies the village af Mana and the Mana Pass, across which Andrade travelled. Today this route is off-limits...Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Telephoto from the road to Mana above Badrinath
  • A night-time shot of this quintessential Nepalese iconNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  • Buddhists lighting butter lamps during LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  • A boy lighting butter lamps during the festival of LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  • Monks lighting butter lamps during the festival of LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  • Filming above Simikot in the Humla Karnali valleyNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Simikot is the administrative hub of this remote and economically impoverished region. Having struggled for half a century to come to terms with the cessation of lucrative cross-border trade with Tibet when the Chinese invaded that country, the people now have to deal with the growing Maoist insurgency in the region.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Though the potency of the hashish grown in Humla is legendary, most of the people there content themselves with smoking a mixture of tobacco and molasses in their chillum-like pipes.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Wearing distinctive white turbans, the dhamis of Humla play a central role in the spiritual lives of both Hindus and Buddhists. The Saun Purni festival at Ralling Gompah each spring is their main event.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Ready to board the helicopter for our flight from Simikot to LimiNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Boarding a helicopter at Simikot for the flight into LimiNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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  • The monasteries or gompahs of Limi were founded in the eighth century under the auspices of Toling, the mother monastery of the ancient Tibetan kingdom of Guge. It is strangely prescient that we should find such a sanctuary, where the wisdom and artifacts of Guge are presrved to this day, whilst making a film about Shangri La.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The Limi valley is the most remote of all the Tibetan enclaves in Nepal, and retains a degree of isolation and independence that is uniqueNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A man watching a competition of horsemanship Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A man watching a competition of horsemanshipNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • North-west NepalNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Jhang is the highest villlage in the Limi valley, an almost impossibly remote enclave of Tibetan culture on the border with Tibet in north-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • With a real sense of pageantry, these riders perform equestrian feats like scooping white kataks (silk scarfs) up from the ground whilst riding at full gallop.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • North-west NepalNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Hearing that we were approaching, the elders of Halji sent out a welcoming party to meet us and escort us into their village.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Our escort on the final climb into the village in the Limi valleyNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Founded a little over 1000 years ago under the auspices of Tholing in Tibet, this is the most prestigious of all the gompahs (monasteries) in Limi.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A lama blows his ceremonial horn.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Khojar man from Halji wearing his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the monastery's foundation and are approximately one thousand years old!Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • An old man from Halji village in Limi, north-west Nepal, in his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silk were brought from Tibet when the village's monastery was founded, and are approximately one thousand years old.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A village elder sporting his ceremonial clothes. These sensational embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the foundation of the village's gompah (monastery), and are approximately 1000 years old.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • An elder of the village sporting his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the foundation of the village gompah under the auspices of Tholing. They are approximately 1000 years old.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A villager in his ceremonial clothes at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A puja (religious ceremony) in the main courtyard.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-25mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Monks supplying the musical accompaniment to the sacred masked dances during a festival.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Khojar woman in her ceremonial wedding clothes. The jewelry represents much of her family's wealth, and is worn here at a festival in the monastery.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Khojar woman in her wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Khojar women in their wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Khojar women dance in all their wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • An incarnate lama at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Two young incarnate lamas watching the masked dances during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A villager chatting with friends during a break in festival proceedings at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A young novice monk.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A young novice monk.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The village elders performing a ritual dance in the main courtyard of the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17 - 35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A boy taking a sip of Tibetan butter tea during a break in festivities.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A Khojar man of the village.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Samyjor Lama, the Abbot of Jhang Gompah, displays a priceless relic saved from the destruction of the Cultural Revolution by villagers at Tholing in neighbouring Tibet. This and several other similarly precious sacred items were then spirited across the border into Limi, where they have been safely kept ever since. This partially broken figure is at least a thousand years old and gives us an inkling of the fabulous cultural wealth that once was part of the Kingdom of Guge.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A monk drumming during festivities in this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Monks provide the sound-track to masked dances during a festival at Jhang monastery in Limi, north-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A boy wearing his ceremonial finery during ceremonies at a festival in this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A villager watching the masked dances during a festival at this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Men from Jhang village during a festival at this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A villager participating in the ceremonies during a festival at this ancient monastery,North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The young men of Jhang following proceedings during a festival at the ancient monastery in their village. Thus are the traditions transmitted to each new generation.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The men of Til village sit drinking chang (a mildly alchoholic beverage made from fermented barley or rice) during a puja at their village monastery. By the end of the ceremonies, which often last all day and into the night, many are so inebriated they can barely stand. This is quite acceptable - indeed their women relentlessly fill their cups...North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The monk charged with blowing the ceremonial horns during a festival at this remote monastery sneaks a cigarette during a quiet moment.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Michael Wood on the trail from Limi into Tibet
  • Sean Smith, Stu Bruce & Michael Wood
  • An elaborately carved mani-stone at Darboche, site of the huge flag-pole at the first chakstal gang (prostration station) in the Lha Chhu valley on the Kailas kora. Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The huge ceremonial flag-pole at Darboche, with Mount Kailas just visible on the horizon. Kailas, known as Kang Rimpoche to the Tibetans, is believed to be the physical embodiment of the mythical Mount Meru, cosmic pillar of the universe. Here lives Demchhog, the Buddhist Shiva. Hindus similarly revere this mountain as tthe sacred throne of Lord Shiva. There is no other pilgrimage site of similar significance in either religion.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • On the shores of Lake Manasarovar.Ngari, Western Tibat.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The Buddhist mantra om mani padme hum carved into the stonework at this tiney monastery on the shores of Lake Manasarovar.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Kang Rimpoche - seen across the waters of Rakas Tal from the northern slopes of the Gurla La.Ngari, Western TibetNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A small monastery on the shores of Manasarovar Lake, built over a cave where legend holds that the Buddhist saint Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava in Sanskrit - {quote}The Lotus Born{quote}) once meditated. Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • With Lake Manasarovar in the background.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A view south across the fantastic eroded edge of the Tibetan plateau and the Sutlej valley, to the Indian Himalaya. This shot was taken on our journey from Kailas to Tsaparang in Western Tibet, and from this point it is possible to see over 500 miles of the Himalayan range - from Dhaulagiri in Nepal to Ladakh in India.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A stunning telephoto of India's Garhwal Himalaya from the Tibetan Plateau between Kailas and Tholing. Kamet - first climbed by Eric Shipton, Sirdar Lewa, R.L. Holdsworth and Frank Smyth on June 21st 1931, is on the left.Nikon FM2, 180mm, Fuji Velia 100
  • Nanda Devi (7816m) is the highest peak in the Indian Himalaya, and lies within an almost inpenetrable cirque which is only breached by the infamous Rishi Gorge. It is almost impossible to see the mountan from India, but here it is, revealed in all its splendour from the Tibetan plateau between Kailas and Tholing.Nikon FM2, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Although this part of Tibet is almost impossibly remote today, it was not always so. The Sutlej pierces the great wall of the Himalaya and flows south into the Indian province of Kumaon. There is a military road along this valley, and were it not for modern political considerations, the metropolis of New Delhi would be a mere three days drive from here.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The thousand-year old entrance to the fabulous Mandala Chapel of Yeshe-O. This incredible building is closed to visitors, and the Chinese are still very jumpy about allowing foreigners to see the extent and viciousness of the damage done to this building during the Cultural Revolution, hence the sign. We were lucky enough to gain entry, however...Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Here in Tibet this valley is known as the Langchen Khambab, and the river rises amongst the most unearthly maze of stark, eroded hills and ravines.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Known in Tibet as the Langchen Khambab, the Sutlej rises amidst these stark and eroded canyons before escaping south through the Himalaya into the Indian province of Kumaon.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Guge, the ancient Tibetan kingdom of which Tsaparang was the capital, was located here  amidst some of the most bizarre and fantastic country on earth.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • On a bitter winter's morning the first rays of sun illuminate the ruined citadel of Tsaparang. This was once the cave-city capital of the Tibetan kingdom of Guge.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The eroded hills of the upper Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in what was once the Kingdom of Guge.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Ruined stupas, monastery and terraced fields near the citadel of Tsaparang at dawn in the upper Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The first rays of winter sun illuminate the incredible eroded rock formations of the upper Sutlej (Langchen Khambab) valley in Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • The first rays of winter sun illuminate the eroded hillsides of the Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in what was once the Kingdom of Guge, western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A view over the Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley from the palace enclosure atop this ancient fortified city. Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • An elaborately carved wooden beam - part of the royal apartment building at the top of this ancient fortified city.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • A defensive tower in the Sutlej valley near the ruined city of Tsaparang, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  • Nikon FM2, 180mm, Vuji Velvia 100
  • A view over the ruined city from the royal palace. Below to the left, the square foundations are those of the assault tower constructed by the mercenary army of Ladakhis who finally sacked the city and put all its rulers to the sword in 1685.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
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