STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

CENTRAL ASIA: SAMARKAND 2018

"Every age has its dreams, its symbols of romance. Past generations were moved by the graceful power of the great windjammers, by the distant whistle of locomotives pounding through the night, by the caravans leaving on the Golden Road to Samarkand, by quinqueremes of Nineveh from distant Ophir . . . Our grandchildren will likewise have their inspiration-among the equatorial stars. They will be able to look up at the night sky and watch the stately procession of the Ports of Earth-the strange new harbors where the ships of space make their planetfalls and their departures."  

~ Arthur C. Clarke 

I have always been a sucker for old maps and accounts of travellers in bygone days. For Daguerreotypes and monochromes of far away people and lands. I have been fortunate to make it to many places that once seemed impossibly exotic to me. Kathmandu. Lhasa. Marakesh. Shibbam. Addis Ababa. And now Samarkand. I was not disappointed by any of these places, but Samarkand really took my breath away. 

  • Built by Tamurlane around the year 1400, this vast complex has had a chequered history, suffering earthquake damage, Bukharan plunder and was even used as stables by Tsarist soldiers. Resoration proper began under the Soviets in the 1970's.
  • The entrance arch is 35 metres high and 18 metres wide, and the flanking minarets are 50 metres high. Imposing!
  • Floodlit at night. A telephoto from Bibi Khanum's mausolueum over a kilometre away. This current structure dates from the mid C19 and has been extensively renovated, especially after the burial of notorious Uzbek president Islam Karimov in the groundsNikon D300, 180mm
  • One of the minarets, seen from the roof
  • One of the domes, seen from the roof
  • Built by Governor Yalangtush and completed in 1660, the central madrassah in the Registan square is the largest. This is the portal on the east side, flanked by two stories of hujra (rooms used for prayer / study)
  • The courtyard and western portal
  • In the courtyard
  • Door of a hujra cell in the courtyard
  • Tillya Kari Madrassah, Samarkand
  • Ulug Beg Madrassah and Tillya Kari Madrassah. Serene in the early morning, before the crowds descend.
  • The scholar Ulug Beg was the grandson of Tamurlane, and he built this madrassah (Islamic college) in 1417-20. By the eighteenth century it had fallen into disrepair, but stunning restoration has been accomplished, most notably for the 600th anniversary of his birth in 1994.
  • Tilework on the main portal arch
  • Original calligraphy
  • The entrance hall
  • Shir Dor Madrassah from a side door in the Tillya Kari Madrassah
  • Door detail
  • Original calligraphy
  • Archway detail, courtyard interior.
  • The mihrab and mosque interior
  • The mosque interior
  • The mihrab
  • The Registan square
  • Statue of Tamulane
  • Tilework detail
  • Tilework detail
  • The entrance arch
  • The entrance hall
  • Gur Emir is the Mausoleum of Tamurlane, the Tomb of the Ruler. Actually built in 1401 by his grandson Mohammad Sultan, this mausoleum also contains the remains of Tamuralane's spritual teacher and several other family members, including Ulug Beg. Tamurlane's tombstone is actually a massive slab of jade, but these are infact only cenotaphs matching the layout of the actual graves which lie immediately below ina vaulted crypt. It is a powerful place!
  • The Mausoleum of the Emir Timur
  • The Mausoleum of the Emir Timur
  • The Mausoleum of the Emir Timur.The domed roof.
  • The Mausoleum of Emir Timur.Door detail
  • The Mausoleum of the Emir Timur
  • Doorway
  • Grandson of Tamurlane.Statue at his observatory, Samarkand
  • This is one of the most remarkable sites in Samarkand. Ulug Beg, grandson of Emir Timur, was certainly posessed of an enquiring mind. He was born Mohammed Taragai on 22nd March 1394 - the vernal equinox. Timur gave him the name Ulug Beg, meaning grand duke. At the age of 15 his father made him viceroy of Samarkand, and under his rule the city gained a reputation as a centre of learning. The Turkish astronomer Qazi Zadeh Rumi came there, and under his tutelage Ulug Beg discovered a passion for astronomy.From 1424-29 he had an observatory built that had no parallel anywhere on earth. Amongst many other acheivements in this field he measured the stellar year to within one minute of our present electronic calculations. His dramatic life story is worthy of a film.This is all that remains of what was once a magnificent three-story building. It is the uderground part of a giant meridian arc which the religious fanatics that destroyed the building and murdered its creator in 1449 ignored, and which the Russian archaeologist Viyatkin re-discovered in 1908.
  • Outside the observatory museum, Samarkand
  • Grandson of Tamurlane.A portrait in the Afrosiab Museum.
  • In the Observatory Museum, SamarkandThe word astrolabe means {quote}the one that catches the heavenly bodies{quote}.
  • Though this museum is a little tired and lacking luster, there are a few really amazing exhibits. This is one. It is a uniquely preserved frescoe from a palace in Samarkand dating to the Ikhshid Dynasty of the 7th-8th centuries.
  • Sogdian dynasty terracotta (5th-7th Century)
  • Star of David from a Jewish house in the city. Dated 8th Century.
  • Samarkand - Main Bazaar
  • Samarkand - Main Bazaar
  • Samarkand - Main Bazaar
  • Samarkand - Main Bazaar
  • Samarkand - Main Bazaar
  • Girls taking selfies outside
  • The main sanctuary. This portal arch is over 40 metres high.
  • The portal arch to the main sanctuary / prayer hall.
  • This huge Quran stand once stood in the main prayer hall or iwan.  The fabulously illuminated copy of the quran which once adorned it is now in The Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg
  • Tiling detail
  • Tiling Detail
  • Decoration on the exterior wall of the main sanctuary
  • A side entrance to the mani iwan or prayer hall, showing earthquake damage and the challenge facing the restorers of this enormous edifice.
  • The un-restored interior of the main sanctuary. Actually, restoration work has just commenced. Work has been completed in one of the small side mosques within the complex, and is well underway in the other. In this main prayer hall it has just commenced and will be a massive job!
  • The mihrab in the un-restored interior of the main sanctuary. Actually, restoration work has just commenced. Work has been completed in one of the small side mosques within the complex, and is well underway in the other. In this main prayer hall it has just commenced and will be a massive job!
  • The mihrab in the un-restored interior of the main sanctuary. Actually, restoration work has just commenced. Work has been completed in one of the small side mosques within the complex, and is well underway in the other. In this main prayer hall it has just commenced and will be a massive job!
  • The domed roof in the un-restored interior of the main sanctuary. Actually, restoration work has just commenced. Work has been completed in one of the small side mosques within the complex, and is well underway in the other. In this main prayer hall it has just commenced and will be a massive job!
  • A restorer working on a new mosaic panel for the main sanctuary
  • A resorer working on a new mosaic panel in the main sanctuary.
  • Ongoing restoration work in one of the side mosques
  • The completed restoration in one of the smaller side mosques in the complex.
  • The ceiling dome of the newly restored side mosque in the complex
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  • Recently completed restoration work in one of the smaller side mosques in the complex
  • Recently completed restoration work in one of the smaller side mosques in the complex.
  • A gentleman of Samarkand
  • The complex from across the street in September 2018.Shah-i-Zinda means The Living King, and this is the holiest of all the archaeological sites in Samarkand. It is a vast necropolis of mausoleums dating from the 7th Century, but it is the structures dating from the 14th and 15th Centuries that really impress. Here, the ceramic artists of Emir Timur's time celebrated their craft, making it the most visually and atmospherically incredible place in the city.
  • The entrance arch.
  • The entrance arch
  • The mausoleum of Emir Timur's sister Shirin Beku Oka, 1385.The tilework is original.
  • The interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's sister Shirin Beku Oka, 1385.The tilework is original.
  • The interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's sister Shirin Beku Oka, 1385.The tilework is original.
  • Tilework detail in the interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's sister Shirin Beku Oka, 1385.
  • The interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's neice, Shadi Mulk Aka. 1372. This was the first Timurid structure constructed here
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  • The interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's neice, Shadi Mulk Aka. 1372. This was the first Timurid structure constructed here
  • The interior of the mausoleum of Emir Timur's neice, Shadi Mulk Aka. 1372. This was the first Timurid structure constructed here.
  • Unknown mausoluem
  • Mausoleum of architect Alim Nasafi, 1385The tilework is original
  • Mausoleum of architect Alim Nasafi, 1385The tilework is original
  • Mausoleaum of Alim Nasafi, 1385. Original tilework.
  • Interior. Mausoleum of Alim Nasafi, 1385.Original tilework
  • Mausoleum of Alim Nasafi, 1385Original tilework
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe Ziarat Khona or pilgrims room. Built in 1334 on C11 foundations.
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe Ziarat Khona or pilgrims room. Built in 1334 on C11 foundations.
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe Ziarat Khona or pilgrims room. Built in 1334 on C11 foundations.
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe Ziarat Khona or pilgrims room. Built in 1334 on C11 foundations.
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidBuilt in 1460The musalla and mihrab
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe mihrab
  • Kussan ibn Abbas MasjidThe roof. Built in 1460
  • The mausoleum of Emir Timur's favourite wife, Tuman AkaBuilt in 1405
  • The mausoleum of Tuman Aka
  • The mausoleum of Tuman Aka, 1405
  • A view through the chortak
  • Taking a rest in the chortak
  • An unused back-street mosque in the old town
  • An unused back street mosque in the old town
  • Haider has converted his house and courtyard into an art shop
  • Roof detail in a back-street mosque
  • Roof detail in a back-street mosque
  • Side wall and dome
  • Samarkand - The registan at night
  • Ulug Beg Madrassah at night
  • Shir Dor Madrassah at night
  • Tillya Kari Madrassah at night
  • At night
  • Seen through the entrance portal of the Ulug Beg Madrassah opposite. At night
  • Seen through the entrance portal of the Ulug Beg Madrassah opposite. At night
  • Floodlit at night.
  • The main entrance portal, floodlit at night
  • The main portal, floodlit at night
  • The interior at night. The amount of gold leaf is breathtaking, and gives the Madrassah its name, which means guilded
  • The mihrab at night
  • The main entrance portal at night.
  • The courtyard, floodlit at night
  • The courtyard, floodlit at night
  • The main portal, at night
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