STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

HINDU KUSH

In July 1991 Isobel Shaw came over to me as I sat in the garden of the Hunza Inn in Gilgit and said "I was at the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad two days ago, and on the desk of the Operations Chief there was a permit for Boroghil and it had your name on it!" 

In September that year, accompanied by Maqsood ul-Mulk of Ayun, Chitral, Tom Gilchrist and I became the first foreigners to be allowed up the Yarkun valley to Boroghil since Wilfred Thesiger in 1953. It was our intention to follow a route parallel with and just a few kilometers south of the Wakhan in Afghanistan, via the Karumbar and Chilinji passes to Baba Gundi Ziarat, the Chapursan valley and finally the village of Sost in upper Hunza. It took me three attempts before I finally crossed the Chilinji An in August 1994, and I subsequently crossed it four times before the tragic events of 9/11 changed our world for ever. I also made several other journies in the area, to places such as Darkot, Gazikistan and the Kalash valleys before that hateful day in 2001. These images are of journeys and people whose memories will remain some of my greatest treasures as long as I live. 

  • This lake-adorned col separates Chitral and Ishkoman, and is just a few kilometres from the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan.
  • Leaving the village of Lasht early in the morning to beat the sun and rising river levels, this image captures the delicious atmosphere of these valleys before the scorching heat of the sun turns them into furnaces.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • This picture shows why early starts are essential when travelling in this part of the world. By late afternoon, when this picture was taken, river levels rise, submerging sections of trail and forcing travellers to wade long sections.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Wheat ripening in the August sunshineBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • A Wakhi from the village of Lasht in the Yarkhun valley. The people of upper Chitral - Yarkhun and Boroghil - are Wakhis. Taking their name from their ancestral homeland (the Wakhan, in Afghanistan), they speak the Wakhi language and are Ishmaili Moslems (followers of the Agha Khan).NWFP, Pakistan.Canon EOS 500, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Telephoto from above Ishkarwarz at dusk in the upper Yarkhun Valley, ChitralBronica ETRSi, Vuji Velvia
  • Afternoon light from Baba Ghundi Ziarat, an Ishmaili shrine in the upper Chapursan valley.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Vidinkot, opposite the snout of the Chatteboi glacier, is where the trail up the Yarkhun leaves the valley for the climb up to Ishkarwarz and the Boroghil PassBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • A young boy goes to work in the fields. Yarkhun is famed for both the quantity and quality of its crop.NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • In winter, there is a servicable jeep-road up the Yarkun to Lasht and beyond. In summer, the river has other ideas!NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The Shah Jinali pass links the upper Turikho valley with the village of Lasht in the Yasrkhun. This picture was taken looking south into the upper Shah Jinali Gol from the meadows immediately below the col. The name Sha Jinali means {quote}King's Polo Ground{quote}.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Trekkers approaching this 4259m pass from the upper Turikho valley / Shah Jinali Gol. The pass links the Turikho valley with the village of Lasht in the Yarkhun.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Koz Sar is a peak in the Karakoram range, northern Hunza, which lies close to the Chilinji An. This is a telephoto taken from Sokhta Robat in the uppar Ishkoman valleyBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Approaching Qui Quldi from Ishkarwarz on the trek to Karambar and Chilinj from Chitral. This valley lies parallel with, and just to the south of, the Wakhan in Afghanistan.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Momeen Khan is the lambarder or head man of this remote village in upper Yarkhun, Chitral.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Boy at Kishmanja village, Yarkhun Valley. The Yarkhun is the name given to the upper Chitral river above Mastuj. 

Bronica ETRSi, 70mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Father and daughter in the fields at harvest timeBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • A man with his daughterBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • In the Yarkhun valley, ChitralNWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • After a summer snowstorm, this porter is approaching the crest of the Karumbar at 4188m. The pass separates Chitral from Ishkoman, and is crowned with a spectacular turquoise lake.Bronica ETRSi, Fujis Velvia
  • Qui Quldi is the camp below the Chitral side of the Karumbar An.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • The upper Yarkhun is populated by a migrating group of people of Tajik, Kirghiz, Wakhi, Afghan and Hunza ethnic origin, reflecting the fact that this remote place lies where the lands of these tribes all meet.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Sain Ali was one of Mirz Rafi's men who have wandered back and forth from the Wakhan to Chitral for generations looking after their livestock in these remote pasturelandsBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Beyond these mountains lies the village of DarkotBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • This lake lies just below Qui Quldi on the approach from Ishkarwarz. Beyond is the snout of the Chiantar glacier.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • One of Mirza Rafi's men at Qui Quildi, Boroghil. This summer settlement lies at the western side of the Karumbar pass.NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A villager from Lasht at the summer pastures in upper YarkhunBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • At their summer grazing pastures in Uper Yarkhun at Qui QuldiBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Lookng at the Afghan border from below the south side of the Shah Jinali passBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Sunset light on the peaks forming the border with Afghanistan north of Shuinj in the Karambar valley in Ishkoman.NWFP, Pakistan.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji RDP2
  • A view of the peaks lying immediately to th south of the Karumbar Pass, ChitralBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • The peak of Koyozom (6871m) towers over the villageBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Before the coming of the jeep-track into this valley, this was the rather exhilarating way one crossed the river here. There is now a more substantial and modern suspension bridge nearby, and this old cantilever bridge will soon vanish.Chitral, NWFP, PakistanCanon EOS 500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Gohar was a tribal elder of this remote settlement in Upper YarkhunBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • From the high camp on the west side of the Chilinji AnBronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji RDP2
  • Known locally as Chilinji An, this 5291m pass links the upper Ishkoman and Chapursan valleys. This picture is of my crew on the descent into Chapursan after our successful crossing (my first) in 1994.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Seen from the high camp on the western side of the Chilinji Pass.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • A view back west into Chitral from the crest of the Karumbar to Koyozom and Thui 2 etcBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • An ancient and solitary juniper at KarumbarBronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • This lake lies on the Karumbar Pass, between Chitral and Ishkoman in the most remote corner of Pakistan's mountainous north. It is just a few kilometres from Afghanistan. Seen here after a summer snowstorm in the month of July.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Looking through the Boroghil Pass into Afghanistan's Wakhan. Taken surreptitiously on a reccé trip in 1992!Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Storm clouds clearing in the upper Chapursan valley at BualtarBronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • This man guided us across the glacier on my first trip to the area in 1992. Here, he is questioning the sanity of my companion, who was putting on his crampons!Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
  • Travelling from the Karumbar pass to Chilinji in the upper Ishkoman, this glacier has to be crossed.Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Evening light on Thui II and Koyozom from a high point above the confluence of the Chatteboi glacier and the Yarkhun valley. Chitral, NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A view back west up the valley towards the Karumbar Pass from the base of the Chilinji PassBronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji RDP
  • Koyozom, 6871m, from the Yarkhun side of the Boroghil Pass. NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Here's what I wrote when I first tried to interest the world in these pictures twenty years ago. All were taken with a Bronica ETRSi and Fuji Velvia;To a desolate, windswept shrine at the head of the Chapursan Valley on the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan come these men. From Bam-i-Dunya, as they call their homeland - “The Roof of The World” in the Pamir mountains of Central Asia - a land that knows no frontiers. These are the last free Afghans, whose precarious lives in the tract of land known as Wakhan - once the scene of the most intense manoeuvring in Kipling’s “Great Game” - are now threatened by a new and ominous force - the Taliban. These are the men of Ahmed Shah Masood - Tajik, Uzbek, Kirghiz and Wakhi - forced to make the hazardous journey across high mountain passes to do business in neighbouring Pakistan. The journey may take two weeks each way. With them they bring livestock (horses, yaks and hardy Pamir sheep), dairy products and felts. At Baba Ghundi  they exchange these for flour, rice, millet, opium and cheap Chinese and Pakistani manufactured goods. This trade is their lifeline, as the rest of their troubled country is cut off from them by the advancing Taliban. At the very mention of the word, these cheerful Ismaili Moslems violently spit on the floor. I have visited Baba Ghundi  five times now. I have wonderful pictures. How can you not be interested in the plight of these people? Contact me at 00 44 (0) 16974 - 78075 or email;steve@razzetti.com  My name is Steve Razzetti.Not a single editor was interested!!
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • Bab Ghundi Ziarat is an Ishmaili shrine and local trading post below the Irshad Unwin pass at the head of the Chapursan valley in upper Hunza.Bronica ETRSi, Fuji RDP2
  • This guy was making his living taking pictures of Afghan refugees for their Pakistani ID cardsSpot the picture of Ahmad Shah Masood on his cameraBronica ETRSi, Fuji Provia
  • Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Provia
  • A view NW across the valley from above Gartens, with the village hidden belowBronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji RDP
  • A view south towards the Darkot Pass from a base camp at 4100mBronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji RDP
  • At the village of Rumbur in the Kalash valleys, Chitral. Her sister is called Atlas Bibi. Bronica ETRSi, Fuji Velvia
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  • Taken during the Jhoshi spring festival at Rumbur village, Kalash Valleys, Chitral, NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
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  • Taken during the Jhoshi spring festival at the village of Rumbur, Kalash Valleys, Chitral, NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
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  • Taken during the Jhoshi spring festival at Rumbur village, Kalash Valleys, Chitral, NWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
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  • These are the men I crossed the Kachikani Pass with on two occasionsBronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji RDP
  • Girls from this village beneath Tirich Mir in ChitralNWFP, PakistanBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
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  • shahi_masjid_chitral_reflected_92RVP
  • South of the Kachikani AnBronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji RDP
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