STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

HIMALAYA: KHUMBU

"That afternoon we climbed to about 17,000ft on the ridge that descends south-west from Nuptse to the fork in the main valley. The glaciers of the eastern branch seemed of no great size and terminated well above the fields of Dingboche, which we now looked down upon. On this bright afternoon with hardly a cloud in sight, we beheld a vast panorama of mountains; from Lhotse, Pethangtse and Makalu in the east, south to Chamlang and Kangtega, west to Taweche, and north to Cho Oyu and Gyachung Khang. In this galaxy, which included a host of named epaks, neither the lesser nor the greater seemed designed for the use of climbers." 

HW Tilman, Nepal Himalaya 1952 

The Khumbu was the first place I trekked to in the Himalaya, in March 19844. I did not return to the Everest region in Nepal until November 2008, and it was both chastening and refreshing. Chastening in that the pace of development has been so swift, and refreshing in that the mountain scenery is every bit as awesome as I remembered. 

  • Arguably the most beautiful peak in the Khumbu, seen from Tengboche.Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
  • Seen from Gokyo Ri in April 1984. It was first climbed via the southwest ridge on April 22, 1982 by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Bill O'Connor and Peter Hackett.Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome
  • Seen from near Khumjung village in the Khumbu valley.The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 6,170 metres (20,243 ft). Ama Dablam means {quote}Mother's necklace{quote}; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest basecamp. For its soaring ridges and steep faces Ama Dablam is sometimes referred as the {quote}Matterhorn of the Himalayas.{quote} Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary. (Wiki)Nikon D300, 180mm
  • Telephoto from the Khumbu valley above Namche Bazaar, taken in April 1984Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
  • Trekkers on the summit of this viewpoint above Gokyo,April 1984Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
  • Part of an expedition to Island Peak in April 1984Canon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome
  • Setting off to Island Peak from Namche BazaarCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
  • I posted a picture of an expedition porter on the Hispar La in Pakistan a month or so ago, and it got over half a million hits, and thousands of comments and likes. I paraphrased a eulogy writer by a member of the Karakoram Club about the heroic efforts of such men supporting the mountaineering and exploratory endeavours of us {quote}adventure travellers{quote}The work of men like these is not so glamorous, but underpins a much bigger part of the {quote}adventure tourism{quote} industry in places like Nepal, as well as much of the general economy in upland areas. Think of them the next time you sit on a sunny terrace in Khumjung sipping an ice cold lager! In the absence of roads, all commodities and goods have to be transported to remote communities on the backs of porters. Many of them seek to maximise their income by carrying double or even triple loads. Each of these men is carrying in excess of a hundred kilos! I could not even stand with such a load on a tump-strap (the head-band used by Nepali porters), let alone walk all day up some of the steepest trails on the planet. Here they are standing taking a rest, balancing their loads on their sticks. You can see that they have ropes tied to the tops of the loads to stabilise them while walking.When you see this you may understand why such men queue up to work for expeditions, where the loads are much more rigorously regulated and their conditions of employment are so much better.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008.
  • I posted a picture of an expedition porter on the Hispar La in Pakistan a month or so ago, and it got over half a million hits, and thousands of comments and likes. I paraphrased a eulogy writer by a member of the Karakoram Club about the heroic efforts of such men supporting the mountaineering and exploratory endeavours of us {quote}adventure travellers{quote}The work of men like these is not so glamorous, but underpins a much bigger part of the {quote}adventure tourism{quote} industry in places like Nepal, as well as much of the general economy in upland areas. Think of them the next time you sit on a sunny terrace in Khumjung sipping an ice cold lager! In the absence of roads, all commodities and goods have to be transported to remote communities on the backs of porters. Many of them seek to maximise their income by carrying double or even triple loads. This man is carrying in excess of a hundred kilos! I could not even stand with such a load on a tump-strap (the head-band used by Nepali porters), let alone walk all day up some of the steepest trails on the planet. Here he is standing taking a rest, balancing his load on his stick. When you see this you may understand why such men queue up to work for expeditions, where the loads are much more rigorously regulated and their conditions of employment are so much better.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008.
  • In the Milke Danda valley, below Namche BazaarNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • This is the place where the trail from the airstrip at Lukla to Namche Bazaar and Everest crosses the Milke Danda river. These days, during the peak trekking seson, over a hundred flights a day service lukla, and there are thousands of trekkers passing each way every day. Given that most of them will not be carrying their own luggage, but will have either porters or yaks with them, the volume of traffic on the trail can be imagined. It is a circus. Waits of several hours are not uncommon here, as one-way traffic streams across the narrow suspension bridge over the river. Consequently many tea shops and lodges have sprung up...Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • As the trail to the upper Khumbu nears the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, these carved and painted mani-stones become more numerous and frequent along the wayNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • The first close-up view of a Himalayan giant on the walk in to Everest is of Thamserku, through the jungle from the trail near the village of Monjo.Nikon D300, 180mm. November 2008
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  • My trekking group camped on a hotel terrace at this gateway village to the Everest region in November 2008. It is at an altitude of 3440m. Namche Bazaar has grown rapidly in recent years as the burgeoning trekking industry bring ever increasing numbers of toursists to the area. Many visitors spend two or tree nights here to acclimatise to the altitude pefore proceeding up valley.Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • The capital and administrative centre of the Khumbu, Namche is at an altitude of 3440m. The peak in the background is Kongde Ri (6187m). The townhas grown rapidly in recent years as the burgeoning trekking industry bring ever increasing numbers of toursists to the area. Many visitors spend two or tree nights here to acclimatise to the altitude pefore proceeding up valley.Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • Most organised treks and expeditions use yaks as baggage animals in this area, and the trails are busy!Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • A view up valley from just above Namche Bazaar. Straight ahead, Everest peeps over the towering south wall of Lhotse, on the right is Ama Dablam, and on a low ridge in the middle distance is Tengboche Gompa.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • En route from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche, with Everest etc ahead.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Mr CK Lo of the Hong Kong Emerald Hiking Team on the trail in the Khumbu, Nepal. November 2008
  • Sunaram Tamang of Himalaya Expeditions, Kathmandu. At Monjo village in the Khumbu. November 2008
  • Snow lion guardian at the gateNovember 2008
  • Statue in the Dhokang or Prayer HallDecember 2008
  • Prayer wheels
  • In the Dhokang (Prayer Hall)
  • Prayer flags and chhorten at the monastery, with Thamserku and Kang Tega towering aboveNikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • Sometimes written as Thyangboche. A view of the monastery from DebocheNikon D300, 180mm
  • December 2008
  • From the trail above Namche BazaarNikon D300, 180mm. December 2008
  • In the Khumbu, NepalDecember 2008
  • Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Tengboche Gompa from the trail above Namche BazaarNikon D300, 17-35mm, December 2008
  • Door DetailDecember 2008
  • At sunset from KhumjungNikon D300, 180mm. December 2008
  • A view up valley from near Khumjung, under a winter sky.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • The vast south wall, seen from the trail up the Imja Khola to Chhukung.Nikon d300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Above Chhukung, beneath the immense, brooding mass of the south wall of Lhotse, is this memorial to three Polish climbers who perished in separate accidents on the mountain. Rafal Cholda,  Czeslaw Jakiel and Jerzy Kukuczka. Kukuczka was the second person to summit all 14 of the world's 8000m peaks, after Reinhold Messner. He also climber four 8000m peaks in winter and made the first ascent, in Alpine Style, of a new route on K2 (with Tadeusz Piotrowski) which has never been repeated. He was a hard man! Respect. RIP.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Above Chhukung village, beneath the immense, brooding mass of the south wall of Lhotse, is this memorial to three Polish climbers who perished in separate accidents on the mountain. Rafal Cholda,  Czeslaw Jakiel and Jerzy Kukuczka. Kukuczka was the second person to summit all 14 of the world's 8000m peaks, after Reinhold Messner. He also climber four 8000m peaks in winter and made the first ascent, in Alpine Style, of a new route on K2 (with Tadeusz Piotrowski) which has never been repeated. He was a hard man! Respect. RIP.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • As winter approaches, the upper reaches of this river begin to freeze over. The terminal moraine of the Lhotse Nup glacier is beyond, with the south face of Lhotse towering above.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • As winter approaches, the upper reaches of this river begin to freeze over. The terminal moraine of the Lhotse Nup glacier is beyond, with the south face of Lhotse towering above.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Taken from the trail to Island Peak base camp, the long snowy ridge here is between Amphulapche (left of centre) and Ombigalchen (right). In the distance to the left is Baruntse.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
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  • The south face from ChhukungNikon D300, 180mm. November 2008
  • A view back down the Imja Khola valley at sunset to these fabulous peaksNikon D300, 180mm. November 2008
  • From Thame Village in the Khumbu. On the far left is Melanphulan (6573m) in shadow, with Kantega, Thamserku and Kyashar catching the last rays of the sun.Nikon D300, 50mm. December 2008
  • From the trail round into the Khumbu valley from the village of Dingboche in the Imja KholaNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • From Dusa, between Dingboche and DughlaNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • CK Ho of the Hong Kong Emerald Hiking Team and sirdar Kunga Sherpa Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Telephoto from above Namche BazaarNikon D300, 180mm
  • From above Namche BazaarNikon D300, 180mm
  • On the trail to Gorak Shep, with Pumori beyondNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • On the right Nuptse (7861m) towers over the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Ahead are Pumori, Lingtren and Khumbutse. The popular trekkers' viewpoint of Kala Pattar is the low brown hill below Pumori.Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From the moraine of the Khumbu glacier at Gorak ShepNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • Late afternoon light. From the moraine of the Khumbu glacier at Gorak ShepNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • From Gorak ShepNikon D300, 50mm
  • From the moraine of the Khumbu glacier at Gorak Shep. First climbed in1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition, this mountain has become popular with expeditions, in spite of the fact that avalanches have killed so any on its slopes. A stitch of two imagesNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From between Lobuche and Gorak Shep. Peaks visible are, from left to right, Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse, Changtse and Nuptse.A stitch of two imagesNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • From the Changri Shar glacier below Gorak Shep, with Lingtren, Khumbutse & the Lho La (pass into Tibet) also visibleNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • This collection of tea-houses and lodges is the highest place most trekkers to Everest spend the night. The trekkers' trails up to the Everest viewpoint on the summit of  Kala Pattar are clearly visibleNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From Kala Pattar (5550m) above Gorak ShepNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • From Kala Pattar (5550m)Nikon D300, 35mm
  • From Kala Pattar (5550m)Nikon D300, 50mm
  • From above Gorak ShepNikon D300, 180mm
  • Late afternoon light from Kala PattarNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • At sunset, from Kala PattarNikon D300, 50mm
  • At sunset from Kala PattarNikon D300, 50mm
  • The summit at sunset from Kala PattarNikon D300, 180mm
  • At sunset from LobucheNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • A view south from about halfway up Kala Pattar. On the left is Ama Dablam, with Kantega and Thamserku beyond.Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • At sunset from a point about half way up Kala Pattar from Gorak ShepNikon D300, 180mm
  • From Lobuche camp on the Khumbu glacier. Early morning light - November 2008Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From the Changri Shar glacier below Gorak Shep. Kala Pattar clearly visible immediately below the main peak.Nikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • An old style selfie using tripod and self-timer! At the end of November the base camp is desertedNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From Everest BasecampThe summit of Lhotse just peeping into view. A stitch of two images shot in November 2008Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • CK Ho of the Hong Kong Emerald Hiking Team contemplating this sensational view from the moraine of the Khumbu glacier near Gorak ShepNikon D300, 17-35mm. November 2008
  • From Kala Pattar (5550m) above Gorak Shep on the Khumbu glacierNikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From Everest Base Camp on the Khumbu glacier
  • Lodge owner in the Thame valley, north of Namche Bazaar
  • Tea-shop kitchen in the Thame valley, north of Namche Bazaar. December 2008
  • Taking a break in a tea shop. December 2008
  • South from Thame - L to R; Melanphulan, Kantega, Thamserku & Kyashar peaksNikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • Above Namche Bazaar. November 2008
  • Seen looking up the Dudh Khosi valley from above PangbocheNikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • Ama Dablam, Melanphulan & Thamserku dominating the magnificent skyline south of the village of Periche (4240m)Nikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • Ama Dablam, Melanphulan & Thamserku under a wintry sky in the Khumbu. December 2008Nikon D300, 17-35mm
  • From the Sherpa memorials at DughlaNikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • From Dughla. Melanphulan to the rightand Kantega at far right behind the flagsNikon D300, 17-35mm. December 2008
  • Mountains appearing through the morning mist at Khumjung vilage. December 2008
  • CK Ho of the Hong Kong Emerald Hiking Team pauses to take a final look at the high peaks of the Khumbu before the trail turns and dives back to Namche Bazaar at the end of our trek to Everest Base Camp in December 2008Nikon D300, 17-35mm
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