STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

HIMALAYA: HUMLA

"Humla. The word resonates like a hymn. Vast and humbling, Humla echoes in whispers. Humla is powerful, yet elusive, like the roar of the Karnali River carving and curling its way through the massifs that isolate and protect this lonely Himalayan region..." 

From Caroll Dunham's introduction to The Hidden Himalayas 

More images of this area are in the  

"Myths & Heroes - Shangri La" gallery on this site 

  • Storm clouds gathering over Saipal - 7031m - seen from the upper reaches of the Chhungsa Kola valley on a December evening. See the following image for the scene the next morning.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Saipal - 7031m - seen on a snowy December morning from the Chhungsa Kola valleyProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Birch trees silhouetted against the evening sky, with Saipal on the horizon. Taken in December. Pure Himalayan magic.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • High in the Chhungsa Kola valley in HumlaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • This is my favourite photograph of Humla, taken during the annual Jeth Purni spring festival at Ralling Gompah. Humli people - both Buddhist and Hindu - come from far and wide to this festival, which is really an extended picnic and drinking session, interspersed with religious observation and puja. It is a key social event in the year, and we were honoured guests.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A lone tree on a hillside above Simikot flashes its autumnal gold in the afternoon sunProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Irridescent seasonal colour contrasts with the deep blue waters of the Karnali river belowProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP II
  • On the trail to Simikot near the village of RipaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Looking north towards the Nyalu La and LimiProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • This is a major trading pass between Humla and the valley of Limi. For an extensive selection of images of Limi, please see the Shangri La section of my Myths and Heroes galleries. These mountains are on the border between NW Nepal and Tibet, taken in DecemberProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Jumla is the main town through which access is gained to Humla from the south. There is a STOL airstrip there, and it is the stepping off point for journeys north to Rara Lake and Humla.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP
  • This is the first pass crossed on the journey north from Jumla to Rara and HumlaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Reeds along the northern shorelineThe mountains of Mugu beyondProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • I had to sprint along the shore to capture this image with the reflection of the moon on the waters of the lake. My humble attempt to capture a tiny bit of the magic of this incredible place.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Late afternoon light in late autumnProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A view east across the lake from the western shore, looking towards the mountains of MuguProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Looking east along the reed-lined norhern shoreProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Autumn colour along the northern shoreProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Evening light on the southern shore, with the mountains of Mugu beyondProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Below Pipa village en route to SimikotProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Autumn glory in the Humla Karnali valleyProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Below Yalbang village, right by the Humla Karnali river, there is this sensational meadow. Before the coming of the Chinese to Tibet and the abrupt end of the ancient cross-border trade in these parts, there was an annual mela or fare here. People came from as far away as Tingri and Lhasa in Tibet and all over Western Nepal, and the bartering, gossiping, drinking, smoking and dancing went on for two weeks...Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Yari is the last village in Humla before the old trade route climbs to the Nara Lagna and crosses into Tibet. These mountains are on the border.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Our yaks on the trail down into Tibet from the north side of this passProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • From a ridge above JumlaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Simikot is the administrative centre of HumlaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The rooftops of this poor Chhetri village in the Rowali Kola valley just north of the Chankel LekhProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Kermi is a days' hike up the trail north of Simikot, and has both an important gompah and some nice hot springs...Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Kermi is a days' hike up the trail north of Simikot, and has both an important gompah and some nice hot springs...Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Between Jumla and Rara LakeProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A man sitting in the winter sun outside his house. Bumra is on the trail from Jumla north to Rara LakeProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The Thakuris were a Rajput dynasty that ruled Nepal a thousand years ago.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A man smoking his sulpa or chillumProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • On a spur three hours north east from Simikot, this village commands fine views over the Dozom Kola valley. It was also the place where the Nepal Trust built their first health post in Humla, which some friends and I put the roof on with Jim Donovan back in 1995.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Just below Torpa village. Tsewang was to be our guide when I accompanied Michael Wood and the BBC film crew shooting the Shangri La film in the series {quote}In Search of Myths and Heroes{quote}. Images of this shoot are on this site.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Ascending the north side of the pass, with the upper Humla Karnali beyond. Taken in December, when the days are cold but the air is clear!Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Also know on some maps as the Chala Lekh, it is a spur on the mountain ridge that forms the Sankha Lagna.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A view south-east across the Humla Karnali valley from this spur on the climb to the Sankha Lagna pass. Taken on a fine December day!Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The Sankha Lagna is a 4800m pass over a mountain spur descending from the east face of Saipal, and this is the stunning view north into Tibet, with the mighty Gurla Mandhata (7694m) on the skyine in the centre of the picture.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP II
  • This village nestles below tha Sankha Lagna on the western side, high above the Khuwari Kola valleyProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Puiya is a summer village, high above the Humla Karnali, used by the people of Yalbang and Yangar for grazing their flocks. It is on the way up to the Sankha Lagna.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Crossing this 4800m pass on a bitter December day, with the east face of Saipal close byProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • On a clear and cold December morning, with the east face of Saipal beyondProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • A telephoto of the summit of this 7031m peak - the highest in HumlaProject VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji RDP II
  • At sunrise from Rani Karka in the Khuwari Kola valley. This was on of those Himalayan Sartori moments! After being tent-bound in a storm for three nights, I awoke at dawn to a crystal clear sky and the first rays of sun just kissing the summit of Saipal above. A sprint in my underwear and a down jacket had the tripod up and this picture taken. Just awesome.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP II
  • A telephoto at sunrise from Rani Karka in the Khuwari Kola valley. This was on of those Himalayan Sartori moments! After being tent-bound in a storm for three nights, I awoke at dawn to a crystal clear sky and the first rays of sun just kissing the summit of Saipal above. A sprint in my underwear and a down jacket had the tripod up and this picture taken. Just awesome.Project VeronicaMedium format images re-scanned in a professional glass film- holder with my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Silverfast 8 software. These images display larger on the site - enjoy!Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji RDP II
  • Against the stormy winter sky, a whitewashed farmouse in Jumla radiates the fading warmth of the sun.Canon EOS 500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • In the far north-western corner of Nepal, on the border with Tibet in the district of Humla, lies the Byas Rikhi Himal. The principal summits in this little know range of mountains are Api (7132m), Nampa (6754m) and Saipal. This picture is of the east face of Saipal, seen from the upper reaches of the Chhungsa Khola valley in Humla.Canon EOS500, 80mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Rising amidst the arid mountain deserts of Ngari in Tibet, the Karnali river slices through the Himalayan mountain chain and flows into Western Nepal, where its tributaries drain an enormous and remote swathe of inaccessible country.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Bhotia means {quote}of Tibetan origin{quote}, and the communities of upper Humla are almost all Tibetan Buddhists. This woman is taking a break from her work pounding millet, a staple in this region.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The young son of the woman in the previous picture.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Tucked away in a high valley to the west of the Humla Karnali, in the shadow of the Sangkha Lagna pass, lies the tiny village of Chala. Like so many communities in these borderlands between Nepal and Tibet, the people of Chala are today having to cope with a new and stark economic reality. Gone are the once lucrative trading routes. Gone are the mutually beneficial arrangements whereby their hardy chiang-lu sheep were grazed during the winter in Tibet. Life here is certainly hard.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Yalbang lies on what was the main trade route between Humla and Tibet. The Chinese authorities proscribed this trade when they occupied Tibet, and since then the entire Humla region has become impoverished and food deficient. The annual mela (trade fair) at Yalbang is now receding into the memories of the elders.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Nyimba woman in traditional dressBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • ChildrenBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Deserted for the winter months, Puinya is the summer grazing settlement belonging to the people of Yangar. During the monsoon and early autumn, most of the villagers move up to this higher idyll and take their livestock even higher to the rich pastures above the tree line. In early November everyone moves back down into the valley for the winter, leaving the houses empty and unlocked.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Grating radishes to dry in the sun for winterBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • As the days shorten and the chores of animal husbandry are over for the summer, the thoughts of Humlis turn to keeping warm during the long winter months. Firewood is cut high above the town and carried down - mostly on people's backs like this.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • While the deep valley floor is still in the grip of the overnight freeze, these caravan-drivers load up their mules and set off on their day's march towards Tibet. Humla has never been able to grow sufficient grain to feed its population, and traditionally relied on trans-Himalayan trade to make up the deficit. Rice and barley are taken to Tibet and exchanged for salt, which is then caried back to the lowlands. The difference in the exchange rates for the two commodities at either end of this long and arduous trade route enables the participants to add considerably to their family's stores of grain at home.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • The trails in Humla are often so steep, and the hillsides traversed so precipitous, that even sure footed mules are unable to negotiate them. Thus, in Humla you may still witness the bizarre sight of caravans of laden sheep and goats winding their way through the hills. Each carries a small set of panniers, and their load is called a lukal.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Spinning wool in the winter sunBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Provia
  • High above the upper Humla Karnali to the west, the Chala Lekh is the second of a series of broad ridges that form the watershed between the Humla and Kuwari valleys.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • This festival takes place over several days at the remote Raling Gompah, and the folk from villages in the valleys below make their way there in a huge procession. Here a group of Chhetris from lower Humla rest during the long final climb to the monastery.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Nyinba Buddhist nuns at the Jeth Purni festival, Raling Gompah, HumlaBronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Khasa Chhetri girl carrying her family's picnic hamper up to Raling for the festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Women from Limithang village don their finest traditional dress for the afternoon puja (ceremony) at the Jeth Purna festival.Canon EOS500, 80mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Sporting their finest jewelry, two Nyinba girls on the hike up to Raling Gompah for the Jeth Purna festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Chhetri woman from lower Humla at the Jeth Purni festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Nyimba woman at the annual Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Children eating dalbat at the overnight camp during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Chhetri man at the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Central to Khasa culture are the dhamis, or village shamen. With their distinctive white turbans they are quite a sight at the head of the procession, and many are enthusiastic participants in the festivities.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Two dhamis - village Shamen - looking a bit the worse for the two day chang-drinking binge that they are nearing the end ofBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A Humla village shaman at Ralling Gompah during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
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  • At Ralling Gompah during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Nyimba women in traditional dress during the Jeth Purni spring festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • Two sisters at the top of a log-stairway onto their roof.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
  • Nyimba childrenBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  • A girl from Limitang village at Raling Gompah.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
  • Door detail.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
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